Start fixing entry first, then middle and then exit. In between each test check the tire temps for proper
camber and PSI and check your water temp/tape.
RR = tighten. Lowering it will loosen you overall but you may also snap loose at the end of exits. Usually you know this is too low when you can barely get on the gas for a lap or two.
LR = tighten middle out
On high speed tracks, usually you have very high tire PSI. Just the opposite for small tracks.
Less PSI gives more grip, slows you down and heats up a tire.
More PSI gives up grip but makes you faster. Also cools the tire down.
Larger front = tighten overall. I try to keep it between 1 and 1.5
Larger rear = loosen in the middle. Prime example is at Martinsville - just as the car rolls in the middle of the turn so you can get on the gas, it breaks loose.
Usually when you use stiffer front springs, you use a smaller front swaybar. Opposites apply.
If the car rolls too much or sways back and forth on corner entry, then your front swaybar is too small.
If it gets tighter throughout the corner then the front swaybar is too large or the rear is too small.
A smaller front swaybar will drop the nose and could cause you to bottom out.
If the rear is real loose or the car is slow to respond, the front swaybar may be too small.
Dropping the rear swaybar will help stop wheel spin. (Martinsville).
If it seems like the back end of the car just jumps out when you get on the gas, the rear swaybar is too big.
Raising the front or dropping the rear will raise the RF and lower the RR tire temps.
I rarely change these. I haven't totally gotten a good grasp on them so I leave them at the fast setup
settings. If you do change them, make it the last adjustment you make.
They control the speed of weight transfers, not the amount of weight being transfered.
As you slow down/brake, the fronts compress and the rears rebound.
If you are tight in, lower the front compression and raise the rear rebound.
As you accelerate, the fronts rebound and the rears compress.
If you are tight out, lower the front rebound and raise the rear compression.
On corner entry, the lefts rebound and the rights compress.
To slow down that transfer and stop a push on entry, you can raise the lefts rebound and lower the rights compression.
Try to do asymmetric changes. Ex: raise the RF compression AND the lower the LR rebound.
Shock synopsis:
RF
Higher compression will tighten the chassis entering a corner.
Lower compression will loosen the chassis entering a corner.
Higher rebound will tighten the chassis accelerating out of a corner.
Lower rebound will loosen the chassis accelerating out of a corner.
Overall stiffer RF shock will tighten chassis, weaker will loosen it.
RR
Higher compression will loosen the chassis accelerating out of a corner.
Lower compression will tighten the chassis accelerating out of a corner.
Higher rebound will loosen the chassis entering a corner.
Lower rebound will tighten the chassis entering a corner.
Overall stiffer RR shock will loosen chassis, weaker will tighten it.
LF
Higher compression will tighten the chassis entering a corner.
Lower compression will loosen the chassis entering a corner.
Higher rebound will tighten the chassis accelerating out of a corner.
Lower rebound will loosen the chassis accelerating out of a corner.
Overall stiffer LF shock will loosen chassis, weaker will tighten it.
LR
Higher compression will loosen the chassis accelerating out of a corner.
Lower compression will tighten the chassis accelerating out of a corner.
Higher rebound will loosen the chassis entering a corner.
Lower rebound will tighten the chassis entering a corner.
Overall stiffer LR shock will tighten chassis, weaker will loosen it.
Now average the RF and LR. Then the fronts and then the rears.
If the RF/LR average 10 degrees lower than both the front and rear averages. If it is higher, you have too much wedge.
Left side tires should be 20 degrees cooler than the rights.
How to heat up the left side tires:
Move weight forward
Take wedge out
Stiffen the rear springs
Lowering the front sway bar will heat up the LF tire.
How to raise a tire's temp:
Drop it's psi
Raise it's spring
Put more weight on it
The Spin Test:
Head down a straightaway at full speed. Keep the gas down and yank the wheel to the left. If the car goes into a slow spin, you are set. If it doesn't then you are too tight.
Brake Bias
This is only for when you are on the brakes entering a corner.
The Test - Remove any caster stagger, go into the corner as usual and give it as much brake as possible without
locking the tires up.
If the car pushes, then you might have too much front brake bias.
If it gets loose, then you might not have enough.
I try to keep this setting as long as possible/at the fast setup setting.
Do NOT use driving aids. You might as well put training wheels on the car or see if your computer takes quarters.
Setup another computer and make a tcp/ip network. Install Nascar on the other server and run server.exe
It appears that offline vs online physics are different. Never practice on your own computer. You need that remote server.
Driving with your feet is just as important as driving with your hands.
PATIENCE. I can not stress this enough. I know it is easy to get excited but you need keep your head on.
The car goes faster when you move slower. Do not do anything with your hands or feet erratically.
Do everything in slow motion. You have drive like there is an egg under the pedal. If you want
to be good on small tracks, you have to learn this.
Drive to the horizon. To stay smooth, keep your eyes to the horizon. You will still have enough line of sight to know when you are too close to someone.
Do not overdrive the car. If you hear squealing, you are losing speed and killing your tires. Do not force the car to
drive on a certain line. By forcing I mean excessive steering.
Loose is fast. If you are loose going into the corner, give it a bit of gas to stop you from breaking loose. As the car gets tighter and tighter you won't have to do this.
Loose is fast again. Creep back onto the gas on exits. As you tighten up, this will be less sensitive.
Watch the replays from different angles. Say you get loose in the middle of the corner,
the problem could start at corner entry but not get bad enough to notice until the middle. Watch for when the skid marks start
Watch cockpit views of other drivers doing laps. Look for lifting points and braking points.
Listen to your engine to tell how your traction is. If the pitch steadily gets higher and higher then traction is good. If it dips down for a second then you are losing traction. If it dips down and then jumps right up then it is too late, you are spinning.
You should also look for signs of getting loose. Turn off the sound and watch the car. Hearing and seeing signs of getting loose is very important.